As Uncle Bob, David, and I walk toward the entrance to the club from the back parking lot, we can hear the thump of music out on the sidewalk. Two Tons of Steel, a rockabilly and Texas Country band from San Antonio, is playing tonight at the Broken Spoke, a dancehall that opened in 1964 and is celebrating its 52nd birthday this year. Google says that we’ll find live music and boot-scootin’, beer and chicken-fried steak inside. It is a cool late February night in Austin and the stars are out. I’m wearing jeans, a sweater, and wedge sandals that make me a few inches taller than my usual 5’9”. I glimpse a youngish woman entering the club wearing cowboy boots and a seafoam green spaghetti strap dress with a full, knee-skimming skirt. Later on, under the lights inside, I’ll see that she has a large tattoo of a rainbow that spans her entire chest.
My tall uncle holds the door open for us, and we enter a wide, sepia-toned front room. Facing us as we walk toward the action in the back is a dummy torso seated in a chair at a round table. He’s dressed authentically in a cowboy hat and a western shirt with snaps on the pockets, and I almost think he’s real until I look closer. The walls and shelves are covered with framed photographs of famous people who have boot-scooted at Broken Spoke before us. It’s busy, and we step out of the way of eager but polite patrons who just want to start dancing. Uncle Bob pays the cover charge for the three of us, and we hold out our left hands for a stamp. As we look for a seat at one of the many tables set up on either side of the open dance floor, I am caught off-guard by a man close behind me who suddenly squeezes my upper arm and smiles. If y’all are looking for a table, there’s one right here, he says, and gestures to his jean jacket slung across the red-and-white checkered oilcloth. He is so friendly, so affable. The physical contact, the smile, what I thought was a quick wink – it seems so forward to my reserved New England soul. For a moment I hesitate, then realize this is the Texas way, and I smile back and thank him.
We sit with legs crossed on folding metal chairs and immediately feel so drawn in by the bustling warmth, music, and bright neon signs that line the posts on either side of the dance floor that we can’t help but tap our feet. David and Bob acquire beers with lime slices stuck in the lip. Two Tons of Steel is a 4-man ensemble consisting of an upright bass, drums, two guitars, and one vocalist. They are wonderful – not too loud, and their music is energetic, clean, and tight. They don’t stop playing the entire hour and a half we’re at the club. As I watch the two stepping couples, I can’t stop the smile that starts to spread across my face. There are young people, old people, all shapes and sizes. Some women wear loose, sleeveless tops that spin and float as their male partners twirl them out and in. The way the couples hold each other in dance position seems both formal and tender, the man’s hand pressing and guiding the small of the woman’s back. Faces show concentration and steady joy. Some folks know all the words to the music and are singing along. Almost everyone wears cowboy boots. I admire a long black skirt heavily adorned in sparkles on a woman sweeping off the dance floor to look for her friends in between songs.
Watching the crowd, it quickly becomes clear who are the really good dancers. Yet no one shows off or takes up more than their share of the floor, and I soon see that the couples all keep moving in the same direction, a slow carousel of stepping, soft stomping, and spinning. A tall man in a turquoise button-down with a bright orange t-shirt underneath catches my eye, and by the time we leave I’ve watched him dance with at least a half dozen women. At first I think he’s a little wild and goofy, but that first impression turns to astonishment. He is amazingly graceful and smooth, with quick feet and sure hands. His sloping shoulders and long arms and legs never stop moving, and although he is sweating, he does not look like he is working at all to expertly guide his partner in her small orbit. He has an open, slightly blissful face and blue eyes that scan the crowd, possibly looking for the next lady he’ll ask to dance.
There are a few short old gentlemen who also draw my rapt attention. They are dressed neatly in cowboy boots and hats, jeans, and wide leather belts that do the job the mens’ flat backsides used to do; their weight has shifted to small round bellies in the front. They, too, have many different partners on the dance floor, and although their joints are quite stiff and their hips barely move, their booted feet are so deft they could belong to much younger men. They seem serene and confident. They twirl their partners courteously, their arms crooking high above their heads to keep just their fingertips connected as the ladies turn.
I pick out other confident movers among the crowd, making mental notes so I can recall the feel of the place later. The muscular-looking man in a ball cap who smiles up at the air above the heads of his partners. The woman in tight, rolled-up jeans and red high-heeled shoes with lipstick to match, who sees me staring in awe at how well she balances in her heels and grins. Broken Spoke offers dance instruction for an hour before their main live bands play in the evenings, and I could kick myself for not taking a lesson. As I’m standing at the side of the dance floor to get a better view, a nice guy politely asks me if I want to try, explaining that the cowboy boots he’s wearing are the first pair he’s ever owned. I say that I don’t know how, am from Maine just visiting, and we chat amiably for a few minutes. Later on I see him with two different dance partners, moving beautifully in his new boots.
After many songs, we finally have had our fill and file out of the low-ceilinged room toward the front door. I can think of nothing in my life in Portland, Maine, that is like what I’ve just witnessed. Portland is full of smart, skilled people who tend to be a little sarcastic and very liberal, who divide themselves up into their special groups and then come together over politics and various worthy causes. They might not know what to think about the roomful of folks I’ve just watched and admired. If they were here, they also might have warmed up slowly, been a touch surprised by the disarming friendliness. They might have felt, as I did, underdressed and out of place. But soon, they’d be on their feet. They’d see the unforced, wholesome delight in every face, the sparkling skirts, the cowboy boots. They’d watch, perhaps with a touch of envy, as a soft-bodied older couple sway up from their folding chairs, clasp hands, and join the dance floor crowd with assured, measured steps, looking like there’s no other place they’d rather be.